“The problem with cats and dogs is that they shed.” Shedding is a common complaint of people who prefer homes free of pet hair to the joys of having a pet. But do we have to choose?

To a point, yes. If you don’t want any pet hair in your home, don’t get a pet. However, we can reduce the problem of pet hair on furniture and clothing with these approaches:
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It may be a structure that you designed and built yourself. Or perhaps you bought a dog house kit to build it, or you bought it pre-made.

No matter how the dog house was built, your dog will be happy if it’s comfortable for him in all kinds of weather, at whatever time of day or night he may be using it.

So what qualities does the ideal dog house have?

The size of the dog house

When calculating dimension for a dog house, be sure to take into consideration any growing that your dog has left to do. Also note that dimension given here are minimum dimension to give your dog space to enter, exit, move around, and lie down comfortably. More space provides more comfort. But if the dog house is intended to provide warmth for your dog, don’t make it too big — it will take longer to warm up when the dog is in it.

Dog house floor space needs to accommodate the length of the dog from his nose to the base of his tail. If the dog is 25 inches long, for example, the length and width of the dog house should each be at least 25 inches.

The height inside the dog house should be at least a couple of inches more than the distance from the ground to the top of the dog’s head. A dog that measures 19 inches high at the top of his head should have a dog house with an inside height of at least 21 inches.

The dog house doorway needs to be at least a couple of inches higher than the distance from the top of the dog’s shoulder to the bottom of his chest. A bigger doorway makes it easier for older dogs in particular to get in and out of the dog house.

For households with more than one dog, you can buy or build a dog house to accommodate more than one dog at a time. If the dogs don’t like sharing their sleeping quarters, however, they should have separate dog houses.

The dog house structure

The roof and walls should be free of leaks and drafts. A flap door keeps drafts from coming through the doorway and keeps the dog’s body warmth inside to warm up the dog house. In colder climates, insulated walls add to your dog’s comfort in winter months.

The bigger the doorway is, the more valuable a flap door is. Some more elaborate dog houses have a hallway, which helps protect the interior from the outside air.

A hinged top makes it easy to remove the roof to clean the dog house.

The dog house location

In climates with hot summers and cold winters, you might want to move the dog house depending on the season.

In hot months, the dog house is ideally in a shaded location. In cold months, on the other hand, the sun can help warm the dog house.

Position the dog house so that the doorway is protected from the wind, perhaps facing the house, another building, or a solid fence. A draft is unpleasant in any season.

The dog house floor and bedding

A raised floor helps protect the dog from the cold earth and keeps rain and snow from seeping in. It also makes it easier for larger dogs to get in and out of the dog house.

For bedding, a thick bed of straw, hay, wood shavings, carpeting, or blankets provides comfort and insulation. Foam padding can be used with or without other bedding.

More dog house options

Depending on your budget and your climate, you may want to consider these options:

• A heated pet mat
• A dog house heater
• A dog house air conditioner

Combination dog house heaters and air conditioners are available at prices upwards of $400.

Avoid heat lamps, which can cause fires.

Acclimatizing your dog to a dog house

When the weather gets colder, dogs that sleep outdoors grow thicker coats to keep them warmer — if they spend a lot of time outdoors. If your dog usually sleeps indoors, an unheated dog house is not going to keep him warm on a December night. Dogs that sleep outdoors need to become acclimatized to the colder temperatures beginning from when the weather starts to become cooler.

Some breeds of dogs will not grow a coat that’s thick enough to keep them warm during the winter. Dogs that don’t have thick coats shouldn’t be left outdoors on cold nights. But a dog house may provide a comfortable retreat for them when they’re in the yard during the day.

Should you take your dog to a professional dog groomer, or should you groom your dog yourself?

Depending on your dog’s needs, the answer might be to do both. If you take your dog to a professional dog groomer, you can groom him yourself between appointments. And if your dog’s coat doesn’t require the care of a professional dog groomer, you may be able to be his sole groomer.

Benefits of grooming your dog yourself

Your dog benefits physically. Dog grooming distributes skin oils throughout the dog’s coat, removes loose hair and irritants, and keeps hair free of dirt and tangles. While you’re grooming your dog, you can look for any changes to his body and spot possible health concerns, including the presence of fleas.

And, of course, a dog that’s groomed regularly looks healthier and more cared for.

Your dog benefits emotionally. Dogs that have learned not to trust humans or that aren’t accustomed to being handled can overcome their fears with repeated gentle handling. Grooming your dog provides him with regular sessions in which to experience pleasure at the hands of humans.

You and your dog have more bonding time. One-on-one time with your dog is when the greatest bonding occurs. While grooming him, you’ll be able to observe how he reacts to and communicates with you.

You benefit emotionally. Studies have shown that spending time with pets can improve psychological well-being and lower blood pressure, among other benefits.

You save money. Do-it-yourself dog grooming costs only the equipment needed for grooming. If your dog has a high-maintenance coat, however, or if you don’t have the patience or time to groom your dog regularly, it may be better to take your dog to a professional dog groomer.

How to start grooming your dog

The younger you start grooming your dog, the easier it will be for him to become accustomed to being groomed. Be gentle and praise your dog often to make the grooming sessions positive experiences.

If your dog isn’t comfortable with being groomed, grooming sessions should be short at first and increased when the dog has become accustomed to the experience. You may want to groom just one part of his body one day and another part another day.

Dog grooming tools

These are some tools to choose from, depending on your dog’s coat:

Dog brushes

Dog brushes come in plastic or metal and can be soft or hard. Brush types:

• Wire pin brushes (with straight metal pins, sometimes with rubber tips on the bristles) for dogs with short or wooly coats, or for the first brushing
• Slicker brushes (with more and shorter pins than wire pin brushes) for more thorough brushings, mostly for dogs with thicker coats
• Bristle brushes for general brushing

Dog combs

• Curry combs are good at getting out tangles and lots of loose hair.
• Fine-tooth combs are for soft coats.
• Medium-tooth combs can be used on most dogs.
• Wide-tooth combs are suitable for heavy coats.

Dog clippers and blades

A wide range of blades is available. Their suggested use is for people who have had professional training in their use.

Dog nail clippers

Dog nail clippers are available in three main types and in different sizes:

• Pliers-style clippers work like pruning shears. They work well with thick nails.
• Guillotine-style clippers have a hole at the top to insert the dog’s nail into and replaceable blades. They may be more difficult to use with larger breeds or dogs with thicker nails.
• Scissors-style nail clippers work like scissors. They’re mainly for cats and birds, but they’re sometimes used on smaller dogs.

If you aren’t sure what type of nail clippers to use on your dog, ask your dog groomer or veterinarian. Use only nail clippers that are sharp.

It’s a good idea to have styptic powder or Kwik-Stop on-hand to stop the bleeding in case you accidentally trim too much.

Dog grooming

Ideally, you’ll be able to groom your dog several times a week. Once a week may be often enough for short-haired dogs

Run a hand along the dog’s body to feel for lumps, injuries, or other changes as you groom. Check the dog’s feet for any sores. Praise your dog to help him feel comfortable with the procedure.

Start grooming at the dog’s head, grooming in the direction of the dog’s hair. Use a comb to remove dead hair and go over the dog’s body, legs, and tail. Be sure to groom behind the ears, at the base of the tail, and on the dog’s chest and flanks. Be especially gentle in areas where the bones protrude. Then, brush the dog with a brush to remove further loose hair.

Matted hair causes discomfort in dogs. You may be able to remove small mats by gently separating the mats into sections with your fingers. Be careful not to pull on the dog’s coat. If you cut off the edge of the mat with scissors (being careful to point the scissors away from the dog), the rest of the mat may be easier to work through. Larger or thicker mats are best left to a professional dog groomer.

Nail clipping

Dog nails should be just long enough to touch the ground when the dog is walking. When they’re longer, it’s time to trim them. Some dogs need their nails trimmed once or twice a month, while other dogs wear down their nails naturally. If the nails are left too long without being trimmed, the quick (the vein inside the nails) may extend further than normal. When the nails are trimmed regularly, however, it will retreat.

Get your dog in a comfortable position on your lap or on the floor. Extend each nail before trimming it, look for the quick inside the nail, and be careful not to trim close to the quick. With darker nails, the quick is more difficult to see, so take extra care. The quick starts where the nail gets darker.

Cut from underneath the nail. When you have the clippers in place and have located the quick, cut hard to get through the nail. Trim just a little bit at a time from the tip of each nail.

Keep the experience a pleasant one for your dog. Do only a few nails at a time if necessary, and praise your dog often. A treat afterwards makes the experience more pleasurable.

You may find it easier to trim your dog’s nails after a long walk or run, when he’s tired and wants to lie down. Or if one person trims the nails while another person distracts the dog with attention, the dog will be focused on the positive attention rather than the nail trimming.

Your dog doesn’t chew only his dog toys — he chews your shoes, the bedding, the furniture, and even power cords. How can you stop your dog from chewing? You can’t. Instead, you can respond to your dog’s reasons for chewing, reduce his access and interest, and give him appealing chewable options.

Why do dogs chew?

Dogs instinctively put things in their mouths. They may chew because they’re bored, anxious, lonely, or hungry, or because they have energy to burn. For puppies, add teething and curiosity to the reasons that they chew.

Dental problems are another cause of chewing. Your dog may be chewing on whatever he can to try to relieve gum pain. Symptoms of dental problems in dogs include bad breath, chewing on one side of the mouth, pain when eating or drinking, and hesitation to eat even when they’re hungry. Yellow and brown accumulations of tartar may appear on your dog’s teeth, and his gums may be an inflamed red rather than a healthy pink.

Stop your dog from destructive chewing

First, look at the possible reasons for your dog’s chewing behavior. Give him plenty of exercise and mental stimulation to reduce boredom. If he chews on things only when he’s home alone, look at separation anxiety as a likely cause. The Odor Destroyer article Separation Anxiety in Dogs provides tips on helping your dog overcome this problem.

Puppies going through teething problems find some relief if they have dog chew toys to chew on. Avoid giving your puppy objects to chew on that are similar to objects you don’t want him to chew on, such as pieces of old clothing. Your puppy won’t understand the difference. Puppies with teething problems will welcome these chew toys:

• Hard rubber balls
• Puppy teething rings
• Frozen dog treats
• Nylon or rawhide bones

If you suspect that your dog has dental disease, take him to a veterinarian.

Second, chew-proof your home as much as possible. To do this, look at your home from your dog’s point of view — objects on the floor, open doors (including closet and cupboard doors), and furniture. Keep doors to off-limits areas closed, and keep movable chewable objects out of his reach. If your dog is tempted to chew on power cords, look in lighting stores for power cord covers.

When your dog is home without human supervision, you may want to keep him in a restricted area of the house. Choose an area without wooden furniture legs or other tempting chewable items, such as the laundry room. Make sure that nothing is dangling that he could pull on and chew.

Third, consider applying bitter-tasting coatings to color-safe chewable surfaces such as wooden furniture. The taste and smell of these substances repel some (but not necessarily all) dogs from chewing:

• Bitter Apple Sprays
• White vinegar
• Rubbing alcohol

Give your dog chewable alternatives

Reprimanding your dog for chewing doesn’t work. In addition to the above steps, though, you can give your dog objects to chew on that you approve of. When he chews on something that you don’t want him to chew on, take it away and offer him your approved alternative. Give him lots of praise when he chews on these toys.

Chewy toys and toys filled with treats are especially helpful for dogs with chewing problems — these toys keep them occupied for a long time. To keep the toys interesting to your dog, give him different toys to play with on different days.

Fido or Fluffy may be lethargic. Or hyperactive. Eating less and gaining weight, or eating more and losing weight. Feeling cold. Feeling hot.The thyroid gland, which sits against the windpipe, could be responsible. Dogs aged two and up are at risk for developing hypothyroidism, a condition resulting from not enough thyroid hormone. Middle-aged and older cats may develop hyperthyroidism, which happens when too much thyroid hormone is produced. An overactive thyroid (hyper-) speeds up the metabolism and body processes, while an under active thyroid (hypo-) forces everything to slow down.

Hyperthyroidism in particular can be fatal if untreated. Treatment for hyperthyroidism reduces the amount of thyroid hormone, and for hypothyroidism, the treatment is to supplement thyroid hormone.

Signs and symptoms of hypothyroidism and hyperthyroidism

Thyroid disease can look like some other health problems. Blood tests and a list of your pet’s symptoms will help your veterinarian diagnose the condition. Only a few of these symptoms may be present.

* Interpreting blood test results

T4 (thyroxine, or tetraiodothyronine) and T3 (triiodothyronine) are the main thyroid hormones. The level of one or both of these hormones is low in hypothyroidism and high in hyperthyroidism. Normal ranges for dogs are breed-specific. The normal level of T4 goes down for cats as they age, so a T4 level in the upper part of the normal range may be fine for a younger cat, but too high for an older cat.

TSH, or thyroid stimulating hormone, drives the thyroid gland to produce more T4 and T3. When it’s high, it’s working overtime to stimulate the thyroid, which indicates hypothyroidism. Often, though, it isn’t high even when hypothyroidism is present. A too-low TSH level means that the thyroid is producing more than enough hormone, and indicates hyperthyroidism.

Hypothyroidism in dogs is often caused by antibodies. Positive levels of antibodies may be present in hypothyroidism.

Your veterinarian will have preferred tests to do for dogs and cats. Sometimes further testing beyond the standard tests is necessary.

Treatment of canine hypothyroidism

Synthetic T4 hormone, given twice daily, is the standard treatment. Common brand names for dogs are Soloxine, Thyro-Tab, and Synthroid. Some dogs may do better on natural, desiccated thyroid containing both the T4 and T3 hormones; a common brand name is Armour.

After treatment is started for hypothyroidism, blood tests should be redone in about six weeks. Watch for symptoms to change. You may see the beginnings of improvement within in a week, while some problems may take months to improve. Treatment is for life.

Treatment of feline hyperthyroidism

Your veterinarian can help you choose between the three standard types of treatment. If your cat has kidney disease, the only option is medication, since the other two treatments may worsen kidney failure and are irreversible.

Look for changes in one to three weeks, and ask your veterinarian when to return for follow-up blood tests.

Radioactive iodine (I-131) treatment

When radioactive iodine is injected into a hyperthyroid cat, it destroys abnormal thyroid tissue, but it doesn’t harm the rest of the body.

Advantages:

• It cures feline hyperthyroidism in 90 percent or more of cases.
• It’s permanent.
• No surgery is required.

Disadvantages:

• Cats must be isolated at a special clinic for about one to two weeks after treatment.
• Cats must be kept away from small children and pregnant women for up to two weeks after they return home, and their litter box contents require special disposal during this period.
• Possible side effects are decreased renal function in cats with kidney disease, and hypothyroidism.
• It’s expensive.

Surgery to remove affected thyroid gland tissue (a thyroidectomy)

Advantages:

• It requires hospitalization for only one day, and not much follow-up care.
• It’s permanent.
• No isolation is required.

Disadvantages:

• It risks damage to the neighboring parathyroid glands.
• Hyperthyroidism may recur even after surgery.
• It’s expensive.

Antithyroid medication

Methimazole (brand name Tapazole) is the usual medication.

Advantages:

• Surgery or separation from your cat isn’t necessary.
• The initial cost isn’t high.
• It comes in pill, liquid, and gel form, so the dose is easy to titrate.

Disadvantages:

• It must be given two or three times daily for the rest of the cat’s life.
• It costs hundreds of dollars a year.
• If the cat has a thyroid tumor (the most common cause of feline hyperthyroidism), the tumor may continue to grow.
• Tapazole occasionally has (sometimes temporary) side effects, such as vomiting and appetite loss. Less common side effects include lethargy, hair loss, liver damage, anemia, bone marrow suppression, and decreased white blood cell counts.

Your role in treating your dog’s or cat’s thyroid condition

Your pets can’t describe how they’re feeling, so you’ll need to do this for them. Know the signs of both hypothyroidism and hyperthyroidism so that you’ll recognize them if your dog or cat is overtreated or undertreated. Regular blood tests will also help monitor your dog’s or cat’s thyroid condition.

With adequate treatment, you can expect your hypothyroid or hyperthyroid pets to live a normal, healthy life.

It’s annoying. It’s sometimes maddening. It can even be life threatening.Your dog’s bark may not be as bad as his bite, but dogs’ barking is a common reason that dogs are poisoned. The good news is that you can work with your dog to reduce his urge to bark.

Understand why dogs bark

Dogs bark to greet people. They bark to warn people about strangers, sounds, or movements, and to get attention. They bark when they want out, or in, or when they’re excited, bored, lonely, anxious, or afraid. They bark when they need to burn off energy.

Learn to recognize when and why your dog barks, and take steps to alleviate the emotions associated with undesirable barking. Let your dog spend time with other dogs and with people. A socialized dog is less likely to see other dogs and people as threats. Give your dog lots of mental stimulation. Provide him with plenty of exercise — after exercise, dogs tend to sleep more and bark less.

If your dog barks when you aren’t home, avoid reinforcing the idea that it’s a major event when you leave and return. Go out and come back quietly, and leave your dog toys to play with. Leave for short intervals when you have time, increasing the length of time that you’re away when the dog is accustomed to short absences. To reduce the sounds and sights that dogs bark at, you may want to keep your dog in a quieter part of the house or away from windows. A radio or TV left on for company helps some dogs feel less alone.

Train your dog to bark less

We can’t expect dogs not to bark at all, but we can teach them to control when they bark. Praise your dog when he’s quiet so that he understands that not barking has its rewards. If you teach your dog to bark when you ask him to, he’ll learn that there’s a time to bark and a time not to bark.

If your dog is barking to get attention, scolding him for barking reinforces the behavior. To these dogs, negative attention is better than none at all. Direct your dog to do something else when he barks at an inappropriate time. When your dog is barking because of loneliness or anxiety, don’t comfort him until he has been quiet for a few seconds. You want him to associate the attention with not barking.

A dog training class can help you and your dog learn to communicate with each other better, making training about barking easier for both of you.

Get an electronic dog calming device

A dog calming device is a humane and effective bark deterrent that quiets noisy dogs without inflicting harm or pain. most operate by playing soothing music which your dog can hear but you cannot. This melody will lure attention away from anxiety producing stimuli. This will reduce needless barking without painful shock, sprays, or sound. Many sonic calmers have a range of several hundred feet and the sound travels through fences and over walls. This means that it can on your neighbor’s dog as well.

One such calming device, the K9 Kalmer can be purchased at many better pet specialty stores such as Odor Destroyer.com

Use dog anti-bark collars

Two main types of collars help control your dog’s barking. Each collar uses batteries and either a spray or an electronic stimulant to tell the dog “no” when he barks.

Neither collar is intended to address dogs’ emotions. If your dog is afraid, help him overcome his fear or anxiety. If your dog is confused, a bark control collar won’t make him less confused. An anti-bark collar is most likely to be successful with dogs who just need to learn not to bark, and when it’s used with training methods.

A no-bark collar may teach your dog not to bark when he’s wearing the collar, but it also teaches him not to bark when his bark may be desirable, such as when a stranger is at the door. Only training can teach your dog selective barking.

Both types of collars respond to vibration. This means that the stimulant may be emitted when your dog is shaking himself, not just when he’s barking.

Citronella

anti-bark collars

When dogs wear citronella collars, the vibration of their barks releases citronella, a strong lemon-scented mist. Dogs learn to associate the sound and smell of the mist with barking, and most bark less as a result.

A 1996 study published in The Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association compared the effects of both types of collars. The owners of the dogs in the study felt that the citronella spray collar was “more effective and more humane” than the electronic shock collars. On the other hand, some dog owners see citronella collars as cruel because a dog’s sense of smell is much stronger than a human’s.

While this collar has a high rate of effectiveness, some dogs become accustomed to the collar. Simply putting and leaving the collar on the dog is less effective than using the collar as a training tool combined with regular training.

Anti-bark electronic shock collars

When the sensor on the collar detects both sound and vibration from the dog’s throat, an adjustable electronic stimulation is administered. The amount of stimulation is low at first, allowing the dog to stop barking before a stronger stimulation is emitted.

A dog should not be left alone wearing an anti-bark collar until he’s accustomed to how it works, and you know that he’ll stop barking after the first electronic stimulation.

Anti-bark shock collars are generally less popular and less effective than citronella anti-bark collars. Some dogs respond well to shock collars, though, and low settings are unpleasant but not painful.

Take your dog to doggie day care

Despite our best efforts, some dogs never learn to be content when they’re left alone all day. At a doggie day care, your dog can play with other dogs, get lots of exercise, and have human supervision. Your neighbors won’t complain about your dog barking during the day, and your dog will be happier.

It happens on your linoleum floor. Or worse, on your carpet. Your cat has done her litter-box business somewhere other than in the litter box.Why? And what can you do?

Cleanliness

Make sure the litter box is kept clean. Cats are fastidious about cleanliness, and if they have to get dirty to use the litter box, they may choose to relieve themselves elsewhere. Long-haired cats are known to be particularly picky as dirty litter may cling to their hair.

A thick layer of litter makes a litter box harder to clean, and therefore less likely to be cleaned. Provide just enough litter for your cats to bury their urine and feces — no more than an inch or so thick, and less for kittens. Liners may contribute to an odor problem, since cats can puncture liners with their claws, leaving moisture trapped below the liners.

A litter box cover has advantages and disadvantages. As long as the cat can be upright inside the litter box, a cover is usually okay for the cat, and it may give your cat a sense of security and privacy. It also keeps a dirty litter box out of sight. On the other hand, if you don’t see a dirty litter box, you’re less likely to clean it. In addition, the extra task of removing the cover each time to clean the box lengthens the time required for a simple chore.

If you don’t have time to clean the litter box as often as your cat would like, provide your cat with two litter boxes.

Location, location, location

Just as most people don’t like to eat in the bathroom, cats don’t like to eat near their litter boxes. It isn’t sanitary. Also, because the smell or urine can attract enemies in the wild, cats generally avoid urinating too close to where they sleep and play.

Cats like privacy when relieving themselves, and some may avoid a litter box if it’s in a noisy or high-traffic area. Then again, if the litter box is too far out of the way, your cat may not use it for that reason. Cats are territorial, and they might not leave their territory to use a litter box.

Cats with arthritis or other mobility problems may have difficulty walking far when nature calls. Older cats may have a failing bladder that simply doesn’t hold its urine long enough any more. These cats will benefit from having more than one litter box, placed in different locations around the home. It may also help to confine these cats to one area of the home.

Who’s been using that litter box?

Some cats don’t like to share their toilet facilities with other cats. In a multi-cat household, it may be necessary to have one litter box per cat. Some experts recommend having one more litter box than the number of cats in the household.

Type of litter

Litter comes in a variety of types: cedar, clay, recycled newspaper, silica, and others. Your cat may prefer one type of litter over another. Experiment if necessary. Mix the old and new types of litter when changing the type so that your cat can get used to the new litter gradually.

Health and litter box use

Cat bladder and urinary tract conditions have similar symptoms:

• The cat strains to urinate, often producing only a small amount of urine at a time.
• Urination is painful, and the cat may also react in pain from pressure to the abdomen.
• The cat doesn’t always use the litter box to urinate and instead leaves small puddles of urine around the home.
• There may be blood in the cat’s urine.

Both male and female cats can develop these conditions, but they can be more serious for male cats. Urine blockage causes toxins to accumulate in the cat’s bloodstream and is life-threatening. If you suspect a health problem behind your cat’s litter box behavior, take your cat to a veterinarian right away. Immediate medical attention is especially crucial if your cat is unable to pass any urine.

Behavior concerns

If your cat isn’t using the litter box to urinate but otherwise appears to be in good health, the reason for the behavior may be personal — or not. Some people see a cat’s leaving messes around the home as a message to the owner. Has there been a change in the household, such as a new pet or a new person? Has the cat felt neglected? Another line of thought is that cats wouldn’t deliberately mess in their own territory to make a statement, but that the stress of the situation aggravated the health problem that caused the accident.

Either way, punishment is not the answer. Cats don’t associate punishment with past actions. If the action was deliberate, extra attention will help, and if it wasn’t, the health concerns need your attention.

Cleaning up the act

After a cat has urinated on your carpet, floor, or furniture, she’ll associate the smell of urine with the place to urinate. Completely eliminating the smell will remove this association. Petrotech Odor Eliminator removes urine and fecal odors immediately, and it’s environmentally friendly. For particularly strong or stubborn odors, Odor Destroyer (liquid or dry formula) is recommended.

Preventing future litter box incidents

• Keep the litter box clean.
• Provide more than one litter box if necessary.
• Experiment with types of cat litter and with litter box locations.
• Have your veterinarian check and treat your cat for any health problems.
• Remove messes and odors thoroughly.

Fences aren’t always practical. Even if you have one, some dogs can jump them, and to cats, they’re just a flat, narrow tree to climb.Indoors, we may want to limit our pets from out-of-bounds areas. Counters, tables, couches, babies’ rooms, balconies, and poisonous plants may be restricted areas or objects. Training methods such as spraying water deter pets only while we’re there.

Fortunately, there are other types of pet containment systems. Confinement systems keep pets from leaving designated areas, while exclusionary systems keep pets from entering off-limits areas. These systems differ in the type of deterrent used (sonic deterrent, electric shock) and in their range of confinement or exclusion.

Confinement systems

1. Deluxe Dog Fence (a.k.a. “Invisible Fence”) / Outdoor Cat Containment System

For use with: Dogs and cats
Price: $118.99 and up for dogs; $249.99 for cats (currently on sale for $199.99)
Type: Electric shock
Manufacturer: PetSafe

Electric pet containment fences can work for small yards and for areas up to about 20 acres. To install the fences, electric cable is buried along the boundaries of the areas where you want to allow your pet. This cable can be around the perimeter of your property, and it can also go around areas that you want to keep pets out of, such as flower beds. Electric fences are invisible, and they’re cheaper than wood or metal fences. Pets can’t dig under them or jump over them.

This invisible fence works in conjunction with a receiver attached to a special collar that your pet wears. When the pet approaches the boundary wire, the receiver emits a warning signal. If the pet continues after receiving the warning signal, he receives a brief electric shock, causing him to retreat from the boundary. Plan to spend about 15 minutes a day working with your pet for one to two weeks until he understands how the fence works.

Pros:

• Electric fences are cheaper than regular fences.
• You can confine pets within odd shapes and large areas.
• You can restrict pets from certain areas within a larger area.
• Once pets have used the collar for a long time, they may stay within the boundaries even if the batteries aren’t working.

Cons:

• Burying the wire is labor-intensive.
• Extensive training is required to train the pet in the use of the fence and collar.
• New collar batteries are needed every six months.
• If the batteries die before they’re replaced, the fence is ineffective.
• Some dogs figure out that they can charge the fence and gain freedom for the price of a temporary shock. These dogs may be unwilling to cross the fence to return to your property later.

2. Instant Fence

For use with: Dogs that weigh over 20 pounds
Price: $279.99 (currently on sale for $239.99)
Type: Electric shock
Manufacturer: PetSafe

PetSafe Wireless Instant Fence confines your dog to within the radius you set — wherever you are. Instead of a “no-go” zone, the receiver on the dog’s collar creates a “stay” zone. The dog can move freely until he approaches the boundary of the signal area. A warning beep emits from the receiver on his collar, which becomes a light static energy pulse if the dog proceeds past the warning zone. This mild correction continues until the dog returns to the “stay” zone. You can set the dog’s boundary on the transmitter to be anywhere from 20 feet to 180 feet.

No wires are needed, just a standard 110-volt outlet to plug the transmitter into. The signal can transmit through walls or other objects. If you’re away from home, you can plug the transformer into a power converter attached to your motor vehicle lighter. With an additional receiver collar for each dog, the PetSafe Wireless Instant Fence can work with an unlimited number of dogs.

Pros:

• It can be installed in about an hour or two.
• No digging or wires are required.
• It can be used with an unlimited number of dogs at the same time.
• It’s portable.
• The correction continues if the dog crosses the boundary, making it very unlikely that the dog will escape.

Cons:

• Extensive training is required to train the pet in the use of the fence and collar.
• New collar batteries are needed every six months.
• If the batteries die before they’re replaced, the fence is ineffective.
• Because the receiver weighs about three ounces, it isn’t suitable for dogs under about 20 pounds.

Exclusionary systems

1. CatScram electronic cat repellent

For use with: Cats only
Price: $29.95
Type: Sonic deterrent
Manufacturer: Innovative Products

CatScram is an electronic motion detector. Your cat doesn’t need to wear a collar for CatScram to work. On a flat surface such as a floor, it guards a six-foot range; when elevated or tilted, it guards a 90-degree protected area with up to (possibly more than) a 15-foot range. Point it into the area where you don’t want your cat to go, and it emits a high-pitched squeal when it detects motion in that area. The sound is inaudible to humans and dogs, but it’s enough to make a cat scram — 24 hours a day.

Pros:

• It’s inaudible to humans.
• It’s wireless.
• Cats don’t need to wear a receiver for it to work.
• It can work with an unlimited number of cats.
• It can protect specific parts of a room as well as whole rooms.

Cons:

• It’s battery hungry; it uses a 9-volt battery or a 9-volt AC/DC adapter.
• Cats that are hard of hearing (white cats, some exotic breeds, Maine Coons, older cats) may not respond to this device.

2. Wireless Indoor Fence / Invisible Cat Fence

For use with: Dogs (Wireless Indoor Fence) and cats (Invisible Cat Fence)
Price: $119.99 and up for dogs (currently on sale for $99.99); $199.99 and up for cats (currently on sale for $169.99)
Type: Electric shock
Manufacturer: PetSafe

Place a transmitter near the area you want to protect, and equip your pet with a lightweight receiver attached to a collar. Your pet will learn to stay out of the off-limits areas. When your pet approaches the pet containment boundary, the receiver emits a warning signal. If the pet moves closer, the receiver will produce a brief electrical shock. Once pets learn how the fence works, they’ll move away from the fence as soon as they feel the receiver alert.

Pros:

• It’s wireless.
• It can be installed in minutes.
• It’s light enough for dogs that weigh five pounds or more, and for cats that weigh four pounds or more.

Cons:

• Because the radio signal passes through walls, it may affect undesired areas.
• The pet must wear a receiver on a collar at all times for it to be effective.
• New collar batteries are needed every six months.
• If the batteries die before they’re replaced, the fence is ineffective.

Your cat darts across the carpet like it’s a bed of hot coals. Your dog has become a 24/7 scratching machine. You find red, itchy bite marks on your body when you wake up.Fleas can attach themselves to animals outdoors, move indoors with you, jump from one pet to another, spring from carpets or upholstered furniture, or hatch from dormant larvae in your home. They can live year-round indoors, and outdoors as well in warmer climates.

Walk into a pet shop and you’ll find topical flea treatments ranging from flea spray to flea shampoos. They may work to rid your pet of fleas — but are they safe?

Look at the ingredients

The ingredients listed as “active” ingredients are typically insecticides. Some insecticides destroy flea eggs and kill larvae, others kill adult fleas or prevent them from reproducing, and some just stun fleas.

These insecticides are used in sprays or other bug treatments for humans as well. They may also be used in insecticides for agricultural use. They’ve been tested on lab animals and declared safe.

However, they may have been found toxic at certain levels, or for certain animals. Human livers and various animal livers differ quite a bit in what is toxic to them. In addition, the cumulative effects of these ingredients may not have been studied. A product that apparently causes no harm with one treatment may cause damage with repeated use. It may also be unsafe if used in combination with other insecticides.

Some common ingredients:

• Pyrethrins are derived from chrysanthemums, and are among the least toxic insecticides. However, inhaling them can cause respiratory problems, and skin contact can result in a rash or itching. While they’re considered safe (low in toxicity) for mammals and birds, they’re toxic to fish and bees. Typically used in flea shampoos and flea mousse, they don’t kill fleas, but paralyze their nervous systems, making it easier to comb them out of the pet’s coat.
• Permethrin, a synthetic pyrethrin, is more toxic than natural pyrethrins. It’s an endocrine disrupter, which means that it can contribute to thyroid and other endocrine disorders. It’s usually used in products for dogs only; cats are very sensitive to it. It’s toxic to wildlife.
• Piperonyl butoxide (PBO) is often used with pyrethrins to increase their effectiveness. It kills fleas and flea eggs. It’s also an endocrine disrupter. The pyrethrin/piperonyl butoxide combination is listed at the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) site as a cause of systemic illness for humans.
• Methoprene prevents insects from reaching the adult stage and reproducing. It’s slightly toxic when absorbed through the skin. Test animals fed high doses over a period of time developed tumors or died, but there were no observable effects at lower doses.

Read the product warnings

Don’t take the product internally. Wash your hands with hot water and soap after using the product. Avoid inhaling it. Keep it away from children. These are common product warnings, but your pets can’t take these precautions. They’ll breathe in the insecticide, they’ll lick it off themselves, and it’ll be absorbed through their skin.

Flea collars constantly emit pesticides around your pet’s head, and everyone who picks up or hugs your pet will also breathe them in. According to Consumer Reports (August 1991), flea collars aren’t even effective against fleas.

If you use insecticides, use only products specified for use with the types of pets in your home. Some pesticides may be considered safe for dogs but not for cats. If a product is unsafe for cats, a cat can have a reaction to it if it’s applied to a dog in the same household.

Consider non-insecticidal methods

Fleas are resilient. However, we can eradicate them without using insecticides.

Area treatment

• Steam-clean carpets to kill flea eggs and larvae.
• Vacuum carpets, rugs, crevices, upholstery, and drapes regularly. Change the vacuum cleaner bag and seal it in a plastic bag immediately after vacuuming.
• Wash pet bedding regularly in hot water and detergent.
• If your pet travels in your car, vacuum the car regularly.

Skin and coat care

• Bathe your pet with a pet shampoo containing natural ingredients, which may soothe irritated skin and help repel fleas. If nothing else, the bath will drown any fleas on the animal. (Warning: tea tree oil, a common ingredient in natural products, is toxic to some cats.)
• Comb your pet’s coat with a flea comb. Dip the comb in water after catching fleas so that the fleas drown.
• Feed your pet a high-quality, nutritious diet. Healthy pets are less likely to attract fleas.

Attack with a plan

Use a variety of methods. If you have more than one pet in your household, apply the methods to all your pets and the areas where they go. A combination of methods works best — but using more than one insecticide at a time isn’t recommended because of possible interactions between them.

Attack at the first sign of fleas, and you’ll have fewer of them to fight.