Dogs are true friends who always stand on the terms of friendship. They serve as pre-eminent pets when compared with others, as they are lovable, faithful and entertaining too. They spare you from your loneliness, especially when there’s nobody with you.

Dogs can be the great companions and friends for you and your family rather than any other pets. To make your pets more commendable, Dog Training is very important. A few tips include:

• Firstly, you need to train your dog at its starting age, i.e. when your dog is a puppy. This is the best age when your dog quickly learns the things eagerly and happily.
• You need to be strict at times and cool afterwards as only then they will learn. Make it clear to them that you are the boss first and then a friend. This will help them to learn the things faster without any ambiguity.
• You need to remain cool and soft while teaching or training your dog because yelling or shouting will reduce all the effectiveness of your training and make your dog angry and anxious too with the procedure of learning.
• The environment needs to be happening at the time of training because this will make your pet and you happy too.
• There should be a constant learning process without any breaks, as this will help your dog in learning the things without ignorance.
• Praising is also necessary because dogs love to be praised by their owners and become happier. 
• You need to inform your dogs about your expectations so that they can learn and work accordingly.
• Sometimes, the techniques of punishments can also be used during the process of training, to make your pet realize his or her mistake and to ensure that it doesn’t repeat it again.
• Spending enough time with your dog will make it realize your importance and the importance of training too.
• Lastly, when you are not satisfied with your training methods and your pet also does not come up with results on the lessons, you need to invite a collar man for imparting effective training to your dogs or pets.

  

All these methods work effectively, when you give time to teach the lessons for your dog without eagerness and anxiety. Along with strictness, throw your love too, so that your dogs feel safe and happy with the environment and realize the importance of you and your training.

It may be a structure that you designed and built yourself. Or perhaps you bought a dog house kit to build it, or you bought it pre-made.

No matter how the dog house was built, your dog will be happy if it’s comfortable for him in all kinds of weather, at whatever time of day or night he may be using it.

So what qualities does the ideal dog house have?

The size of the dog house

When calculating dimension for a dog house, be sure to take into consideration any growing that your dog has left to do. Also note that dimension given here are minimum dimension to give your dog space to enter, exit, move around, and lie down comfortably. More space provides more comfort. But if the dog house is intended to provide warmth for your dog, don’t make it too big — it will take longer to warm up when the dog is in it.

Dog house floor space needs to accommodate the length of the dog from his nose to the base of his tail. If the dog is 25 inches long, for example, the length and width of the dog house should each be at least 25 inches.

The height inside the dog house should be at least a couple of inches more than the distance from the ground to the top of the dog’s head. A dog that measures 19 inches high at the top of his head should have a dog house with an inside height of at least 21 inches.

The dog house doorway needs to be at least a couple of inches higher than the distance from the top of the dog’s shoulder to the bottom of his chest. A bigger doorway makes it easier for older dogs in particular to get in and out of the dog house.

For households with more than one dog, you can buy or build a dog house to accommodate more than one dog at a time. If the dogs don’t like sharing their sleeping quarters, however, they should have separate dog houses.

The dog house structure

The roof and walls should be free of leaks and drafts. A flap door keeps drafts from coming through the doorway and keeps the dog’s body warmth inside to warm up the dog house. In colder climates, insulated walls add to your dog’s comfort in winter months.

The bigger the doorway is, the more valuable a flap door is. Some more elaborate dog houses have a hallway, which helps protect the interior from the outside air.

A hinged top makes it easy to remove the roof to clean the dog house.

The dog house location

In climates with hot summers and cold winters, you might want to move the dog house depending on the season.

In hot months, the dog house is ideally in a shaded location. In cold months, on the other hand, the sun can help warm the dog house.

Position the dog house so that the doorway is protected from the wind, perhaps facing the house, another building, or a solid fence. A draft is unpleasant in any season.

The dog house floor and bedding

A raised floor helps protect the dog from the cold earth and keeps rain and snow from seeping in. It also makes it easier for larger dogs to get in and out of the dog house.

For bedding, a thick bed of straw, hay, wood shavings, carpeting, or blankets provides comfort and insulation. Foam padding can be used with or without other bedding.

More dog house options

Depending on your budget and your climate, you may want to consider these options:

• A heated pet mat
• A dog house heater
• A dog house air conditioner

Combination dog house heaters and air conditioners are available at prices upwards of $400.

Avoid heat lamps, which can cause fires.

Acclimatizing your dog to a dog house

When the weather gets colder, dogs that sleep outdoors grow thicker coats to keep them warmer — if they spend a lot of time outdoors. If your dog usually sleeps indoors, an unheated dog house is not going to keep him warm on a December night. Dogs that sleep outdoors need to become acclimatized to the colder temperatures beginning from when the weather starts to become cooler.

Some breeds of dogs will not grow a coat that’s thick enough to keep them warm during the winter. Dogs that don’t have thick coats shouldn’t be left outdoors on cold nights. But a dog house may provide a comfortable retreat for them when they’re in the yard during the day.

Fido has been having difficulty standing up after lying down, and he hesitates to climb stairs. He limps or walks with a swaying motion, and he has developed an awkward, hopping gait when running. After your veterinarian examines your dog and does X-rays, you get the diagnosis: canine hip dysplasia.

What is hip dysplasia?

Hip dysplasia is a degenerative condition affecting the hip joints. While cats and humans can also develop it, the condition is more common in dogs. Large dog breeds in particular are susceptible to hip dysplasia.

Normally, the femur (thighbone) head fits snugly into the hip socket. When hip dysplasia occurs, the femur fits loosely because of loose ligaments, poor muscle condition, or a malformed ball or socket. More than one factor may contribute to the condition, which can range from minor looseness to hip dislocation. One or both hips may be affected during the dog’s development. The abnormal joint erosion causes pain and arthritis in the affected hip(s).

While dogs as young as four months may begin to have symptoms, the condition might not manifest itself until middle age or later.

Why do some dogs get hip dysplasia?

Genetics are a major factor, and more than one gene is involved. If either parent has the genetic susceptibility toward hip dysplasia, the offspring will have this predisposition too. If both parents have it, the offspring are more likely to develop the condition.

Environmental factors appear to play a role in influencing which dogs develop hip dysplasia and when:

• Growth rate (particularly with large dog breeds)
• Amount of exercise
• Nutrition levels
• Obesity

Dogs prone to hip dysplasia but raised in optimal conditions may not develop the condition until middle age or older — or they may not develop it at all.

Preventing hip dysplasia in dogs

While we can’t predict which dogs that are carriers of the disease will develop it, we can greatly lessen the chances of their getting it by taking these precautions:

Restrict the amount of protein in the dog’s diet. Dogs that are fed unrestricted amounts of high-protein food have a higher tendency toward hip dysplasia. Study results don’t suggest that dogs be fed low-protein diets, but that the total amount of protein shouldn’t exceed recommended daily levels.

Don’t let your dog become overweight. Excess weight adds more stress to the bones.

Restrict the amount and types of exercise for puppies. Moderate exercise and the development of muscle mass is essential for good health. But for dogs with a tendency toward hip dysplasia, exercise that puts extra stress on the joints, such as jumping, may contribute to these dogs developing the condition.

Treating hip dysplasia in dogs

If your dog has developed hip dysplasia, a number of treatments can help slow or stop the progression of the disease and relieve your dog’s pain.

Keep your dog warm. Give your dog a place to sleep that’s warm and draft-free. When the weather is cold, a dog sweater can help.

Provide a comfortable bed for your dog. A well-padded bed helps reduce pressure on a dog’s joints and protects the dog from cold coming from the floor.

Give your dog medication and supplements.

• Adequan Canine is an anti-inflammatory, injectable prescription drug for dogs with arthritis. It reduces joint friction and helps rebuild cartilage in damaged joints, making it more than just a painkiller.
• Your veterinarian may recommend an over-the-counter anti-inflammatory such as Aspirin.
• Omega-3 fatty acid supplements also help reduce inflammation.
• Glucosamine aids in reducing pain and rebuilding damaged cartilage.

Be sure to discuss any medications with your veterinarian before administering them to your dog.

Do stretching exercises with your dog. To alleviate the pain and compensate for decreased joint movement, dogs with hip dysplasia shift the balance of their weight when they walk. This can cause spinal problems and lead to some muscles atrophying from lack of use. A veterinarian or a chiropractor can demonstrate range-of-motion stretching exercises to help the muscles and the spine.

Consider surgery. Depending on the degree of hip dysplasia, different types of surgery are done to help animals with this condition:

• In the early stages of hip dysplasia, a triple pelvic osteotomy can stabilize the femur in the hip socket by cutting the pelvis in three pieces and repositioning the pieces. This procedure is done more with younger animals.
• Dogs that are under 30 pounds, fully grown, and in good health may be able to get a total hip replacement — the femur head and the hip socket are replaced with an artificial joint.
• If the condition has progressed and the joint has degenerated considerably, the head and neck of the femur can be removed surgically. This procedure is called a femoral head and neck osteotomy. Animals that have had this surgery can’t run as well as dogs that have never had hip dysplasia, but the hind leg muscles compensate in a way that allow dogs to walk without this joint.

Should you take your dog to a professional dog groomer, or should you groom your dog yourself?

Depending on your dog’s needs, the answer might be to do both. If you take your dog to a professional dog groomer, you can groom him yourself between appointments. And if your dog’s coat doesn’t require the care of a professional dog groomer, you may be able to be his sole groomer.

Benefits of grooming your dog yourself

Your dog benefits physically. Dog grooming distributes skin oils throughout the dog’s coat, removes loose hair and irritants, and keeps hair free of dirt and tangles. While you’re grooming your dog, you can look for any changes to his body and spot possible health concerns, including the presence of fleas.

And, of course, a dog that’s groomed regularly looks healthier and more cared for.

Your dog benefits emotionally. Dogs that have learned not to trust humans or that aren’t accustomed to being handled can overcome their fears with repeated gentle handling. Grooming your dog provides him with regular sessions in which to experience pleasure at the hands of humans.

You and your dog have more bonding time. One-on-one time with your dog is when the greatest bonding occurs. While grooming him, you’ll be able to observe how he reacts to and communicates with you.

You benefit emotionally. Studies have shown that spending time with pets can improve psychological well-being and lower blood pressure, among other benefits.

You save money. Do-it-yourself dog grooming costs only the equipment needed for grooming. If your dog has a high-maintenance coat, however, or if you don’t have the patience or time to groom your dog regularly, it may be better to take your dog to a professional dog groomer.

How to start grooming your dog

The younger you start grooming your dog, the easier it will be for him to become accustomed to being groomed. Be gentle and praise your dog often to make the grooming sessions positive experiences.

If your dog isn’t comfortable with being groomed, grooming sessions should be short at first and increased when the dog has become accustomed to the experience. You may want to groom just one part of his body one day and another part another day.

Dog grooming tools

These are some tools to choose from, depending on your dog’s coat:

Dog brushes

Dog brushes come in plastic or metal and can be soft or hard. Brush types:

• Wire pin brushes (with straight metal pins, sometimes with rubber tips on the bristles) for dogs with short or wooly coats, or for the first brushing
• Slicker brushes (with more and shorter pins than wire pin brushes) for more thorough brushings, mostly for dogs with thicker coats
• Bristle brushes for general brushing

Dog combs

• Curry combs are good at getting out tangles and lots of loose hair.
• Fine-tooth combs are for soft coats.
• Medium-tooth combs can be used on most dogs.
• Wide-tooth combs are suitable for heavy coats.

Dog clippers and blades

A wide range of blades is available. Their suggested use is for people who have had professional training in their use.

Dog nail clippers

Dog nail clippers are available in three main types and in different sizes:

• Pliers-style clippers work like pruning shears. They work well with thick nails.
• Guillotine-style clippers have a hole at the top to insert the dog’s nail into and replaceable blades. They may be more difficult to use with larger breeds or dogs with thicker nails.
• Scissors-style nail clippers work like scissors. They’re mainly for cats and birds, but they’re sometimes used on smaller dogs.

If you aren’t sure what type of nail clippers to use on your dog, ask your dog groomer or veterinarian. Use only nail clippers that are sharp.

It’s a good idea to have styptic powder or Kwik-Stop on-hand to stop the bleeding in case you accidentally trim too much.

Dog grooming

Ideally, you’ll be able to groom your dog several times a week. Once a week may be often enough for short-haired dogs

Run a hand along the dog’s body to feel for lumps, injuries, or other changes as you groom. Check the dog’s feet for any sores. Praise your dog to help him feel comfortable with the procedure.

Start grooming at the dog’s head, grooming in the direction of the dog’s hair. Use a comb to remove dead hair and go over the dog’s body, legs, and tail. Be sure to groom behind the ears, at the base of the tail, and on the dog’s chest and flanks. Be especially gentle in areas where the bones protrude. Then, brush the dog with a brush to remove further loose hair.

Matted hair causes discomfort in dogs. You may be able to remove small mats by gently separating the mats into sections with your fingers. Be careful not to pull on the dog’s coat. If you cut off the edge of the mat with scissors (being careful to point the scissors away from the dog), the rest of the mat may be easier to work through. Larger or thicker mats are best left to a professional dog groomer.

Nail clipping

Dog nails should be just long enough to touch the ground when the dog is walking. When they’re longer, it’s time to trim them. Some dogs need their nails trimmed once or twice a month, while other dogs wear down their nails naturally. If the nails are left too long without being trimmed, the quick (the vein inside the nails) may extend further than normal. When the nails are trimmed regularly, however, it will retreat.

Get your dog in a comfortable position on your lap or on the floor. Extend each nail before trimming it, look for the quick inside the nail, and be careful not to trim close to the quick. With darker nails, the quick is more difficult to see, so take extra care. The quick starts where the nail gets darker.

Cut from underneath the nail. When you have the clippers in place and have located the quick, cut hard to get through the nail. Trim just a little bit at a time from the tip of each nail.

Keep the experience a pleasant one for your dog. Do only a few nails at a time if necessary, and praise your dog often. A treat afterwards makes the experience more pleasurable.

You may find it easier to trim your dog’s nails after a long walk or run, when he’s tired and wants to lie down. Or if one person trims the nails while another person distracts the dog with attention, the dog will be focused on the positive attention rather than the nail trimming.

You vaccinate your dog or cat for rabies. Distemper. Feline leukemia. Or do you? If you do, how often? If you don’t, why not? The answers to these questions are less clear-cut than they were a decade ago.

How vaccinations work

Vaccines contain small amounts of bacteria, viruses, or other organisms from the disease they protect against, but which have been modified so that they won’t cause that disease. After an animal is vaccinated, the vaccine stimulates the immune system to produce antibodies to fight against it. With these antibodies present, the immune system should be able to protect the animal against the disease if the animal is later exposed to it.

The protection created by the reaction to the vaccine is reduced over time, which is why booster vaccinations are needed.

The risks versus the benefits

Anyone who has had a pet die from a preventable disease can tell you about the benefits of vaccinating your dog or cat. Unfortunately, vaccinating your pet can sometimes be harmful. Vaccines can cause side effects, such as a lump at the injection site, reduced appetite, fever, vomiting, or encephalitis (inflammation of the brain). Some cats develop cancerous tumors at the sites of rabies or feline leukemia vaccinations.

With animals that have had reactions to vaccines, it’s best not to give the animal more than one vaccine at a time. The reaction may be less with only one vaccine to deal with. If there is still a reaction, you’ll be able to see which vaccine your pet is reacting to.

In addition, animals should be vaccinated only when they are healthy. Animals that aren’t well may not have a strong enough immune system to be able to handle the vaccine.

Vaccines do not provide complete immunity to the diseases they’re made to protect against. Even when your pets have been vaccinated, it may still be possible for them to contract the diseases that the vaccines were for. Sometimes vaccines protect, and sometimes they don’t — and we don’t know which animals they’ll protect when we vaccinate our pets. The statistics concerning how effective vaccines are depend on who you talk to.

Vaccines and disease risk factors

How is the disease that the vaccine is for spread? How likely is your pet to come into contact with animals that have that disease?

We can reduce the risks associated with vaccines by considering which vaccinations our pets need and which ones they don’t need. Indoor cats, for example, don’t need to be vaccinated against diseases that are passed through direct contact. Most animals don’t need to be vaccinated against conditions that don’t exist in their area. An exception may be show animals, which travel and are in contact with animals from other areas.

Vaccination frequency

Between the options of vaccinating our pets annually and not vaccinating them at all lie other choices.

A yearly booster shot for many diseases is not considered necessary any more. Many vaccines last much longer than one year. Vaccination intervals of about every three years are now recommended for some vaccines, or a blood test can be done to assess the level of the pet’s antibodies. A problem with this test is that it can’t test the effectiveness of the animal’s immune system. On the other hand, yearly vaccinations haven’t been proven to be necessary.

Another approach is to vaccinate puppies and kittens when they’re young (but not younger than three months), perhaps give them one or two booster shots, and then stop. The vaccines may continue to be effective for many years, and you’re sparing your pet the risk of repeated vaccinations.

When you discuss vaccinations with your pet’s veterinarian, consider the risks your pet faces in your area. Consider also your pet’s health and living situation. Whatever you decide, your pet should still have annual examinations to help identify and prevent health problems.

You and your dog are out on your daily walk, or perhaps your dog is in your back yard. Suddenly, he dashes toward the bushes or the garbage cans, and just as suddenly, he yelps. You almost yelp too when you realize that your dog has been sprayed by a skulking skunk.

Now what?

Check your dog

Skunks can carry rabies. If your dog has been vaccinated for rabies, you don’t need to be concerned, but if he hasn’t, check if your dog appears to have been bitten. If the skunk might have bitten your dog, talk to your veterinarian right away.

If skunk spray got in your dog’s eyes, they’ll appear red. Your dog may be temporarily blinded. Eye drops for humans or a saline solution can help relieve the eye irritation. If the irritation persists or if it’s more than mild, take your dog to your veterinarian.

Bathe your dog

You want to get rid of that skunk oder before your dog comes into your house again. Treatment will also be more effective if it’s done before your dog’s coat dries with the skunk spray on it.

Shampoo the affected area as soon as possible. Wear rubber gloves and old clothing while bathing your dog — the spray may rub off on the clothes you’re wearing. To keep the odor from spreading more on your dog, clean only the area that the skunk sprayed at first.

The traditional tomato juice remedy masks skunk odor rather than removing it. However, this remedy by Illinois chemist Paul Krebaum has been touted as successful at eliminating skunk odor. Mix together these ingredients in a large open container:

• One quart 3 percent hydrogen peroxide
• One-quarter cup baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
• One teaspoon strong liquid soap

The ingredients will fizz when mixed together. Use the mixture while it’s still foaming.

Wet down the affected area of the dog and lather in the mixture. Be careful to keep it out of the dog’s eyes, nose, and mouth. If the dog was sprayed in the face, apply the mixture to the dog’s face very carefully with a cloth. Leave the lather in for up to 10 minutes, and then rinse thoroughly with tap water.

Warning: do not store or cover the solution after it’s mixed together — it will explode. Discard unused portions when you’re finished.

Treat the area

If the skunk spraying occurred on your property, you need to treat more than your dog to eliminate the odor. Petrotech Odor Eliminator direct spray and mist spray are effective in eliminating skunk odors and other odors. They can be used on wood, concrete, metal, plastic, tile, fabric, and other surfaces.

Prevent recurrences

If your dog encounters skunks during walks, shorten his leash when you’re near areas or objects where skunks could be — bushes, parked cars, garbage cans and other objects big enough for skunks to be behind. If skunks come into your yard at night, turn an outside light on and make a noise a few minutes before letting your dog outside. Skunks will then most likely leave the yard before your dog can encounter them.

To help keep skunks out of your yard, use only garbage cans with tight-fitting lids, and don’t leave any pet food outside.

Your dog doesn’t chew only his dog toys — he chews your shoes, the bedding, the furniture, and even power cords. How can you stop your dog from chewing? You can’t. Instead, you can respond to your dog’s reasons for chewing, reduce his access and interest, and give him appealing chewable options.

Why do dogs chew?

Dogs instinctively put things in their mouths. They may chew because they’re bored, anxious, lonely, or hungry, or because they have energy to burn. For puppies, add teething and curiosity to the reasons that they chew.

Dental problems are another cause of chewing. Your dog may be chewing on whatever he can to try to relieve gum pain. Symptoms of dental problems in dogs include bad breath, chewing on one side of the mouth, pain when eating or drinking, and hesitation to eat even when they’re hungry. Yellow and brown accumulations of tartar may appear on your dog’s teeth, and his gums may be an inflamed red rather than a healthy pink.

Stop your dog from destructive chewing

First, look at the possible reasons for your dog’s chewing behavior. Give him plenty of exercise and mental stimulation to reduce boredom. If he chews on things only when he’s home alone, look at separation anxiety as a likely cause. The Odor Destroyer article Separation Anxiety in Dogs provides tips on helping your dog overcome this problem.

Puppies going through teething problems find some relief if they have dog chew toys to chew on. Avoid giving your puppy objects to chew on that are similar to objects you don’t want him to chew on, such as pieces of old clothing. Your puppy won’t understand the difference. Puppies with teething problems will welcome these chew toys:

• Hard rubber balls
• Puppy teething rings
• Frozen dog treats
• Nylon or rawhide bones

If you suspect that your dog has dental disease, take him to a veterinarian.

Second, chew-proof your home as much as possible. To do this, look at your home from your dog’s point of view — objects on the floor, open doors (including closet and cupboard doors), and furniture. Keep doors to off-limits areas closed, and keep movable chewable objects out of his reach. If your dog is tempted to chew on power cords, look in lighting stores for power cord covers.

When your dog is home without human supervision, you may want to keep him in a restricted area of the house. Choose an area without wooden furniture legs or other tempting chewable items, such as the laundry room. Make sure that nothing is dangling that he could pull on and chew.

Third, consider applying bitter-tasting coatings to color-safe chewable surfaces such as wooden furniture. The taste and smell of these substances repel some (but not necessarily all) dogs from chewing:

• Bitter Apple Sprays
• White vinegar
• Rubbing alcohol

Give your dog chewable alternatives

Reprimanding your dog for chewing doesn’t work. In addition to the above steps, though, you can give your dog objects to chew on that you approve of. When he chews on something that you don’t want him to chew on, take it away and offer him your approved alternative. Give him lots of praise when he chews on these toys.

Chewy toys and toys filled with treats are especially helpful for dogs with chewing problems — these toys keep them occupied for a long time. To keep the toys interesting to your dog, give him different toys to play with on different days.

Fluffy or Fido has developed a lump. You observe your cat or dog having difficulty when chewing. Your pet doesn’t want to play any more. The diagnosis: cancer.Dog, cats, and other mammals are susceptible to many of the diseases that humans get, cancer included. With advances in veterinary medicine, our pets are living longer, which increases their chances of getting cancer and other diseases. The good news is that cancer treatment for pets has advanced at the same pace as cancer treatment for people.

Warning signs of cancer in pets

The warning signs listed here could be caused by other conditions, not just by cancer. Whatever their cause, early treatment increases the odds of success. Take your pet to your veterinarian if you see any of these signs:

Pet appearance and smell

• A lump or sore that won’t heal or go away
• An abnormal swelling that grows
• Difference in testicle size
• Bleeding or discharge from a body opening
• Weight loss despite eating
• Lameness or stiffness
• An odor

Pet behavior

• Difficulty chewing or swallowing
• Not eating for more than a day or two
• Difficulty breathing
• Difficulty urinating or defecating
• Fatigue — tiring easily and lacking energy
• Depression
• Appetite loss
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Coughing

Pet cancer diagnosis

If your cat or dog has a tumor or other visibly affected area, your veterinarian will aspirate a few cells from the area and examine them under a microscope. The presence of any abnormal cells means that the next step in diagnosis is a biopsy — removal of a tissue sample for microscopic examination. After the tissue has been examined under a microscope, the tumor can be classified as high-grade (fast-growing), intermediate, or low-grade (slow-growing).

To find tumors that might not be visible, diagnostic imaging tools can be used, such as X-rays, ultrasound, radiography, scans, and endoscopy. With endoscopy, a small scope is inserted into the body so that internal cancerous masses can be viewed and biopsied. The animal is sedated, but the procedure is less invasive than surgery.

Blood tests are used to look for changes in white blood cells as well as other changes that could point to cancer. In addition, blood tests can detect problems that the treatment itself may be causing.

After a diagnosis of cancer is made, further tests may be necessary to monitor the treatment of the disease.

Cancer treatment for pets

Animals respond differently to cancer treatment than people do. Often a combination of these treatment types is used:

• Surgery is the most effective treatment for most tumors. When tumors can’t be completely removed surgically, other treatments are used in combination with surgery.
• Radiotherapy kills cancerous cells via high-energy X-rays. It’s done as a series of treatments over a few weeks. The most common side effect is hair loss and a sunburn effect around the area of the tumor; severe side effects are rare. Sometimes radiotherapy destroys all the cancer cells. Other times, it just reduces their size enough to allow the animal good health for a long time before the tumor grows again.
• Chemotherapy rarely cures tumors, but it often puts the cancer in remission. It’s typically used for cancer that has spread to other areas and for inoperable tumors. Side effects are less severe than with people.

Special attention to your pet’s nutritional needs helps support your pet’s health. For dogs, Hill’s Prescription Diet Canine n/d has been created specifically to counter the effects of cancer and cancer treatment. The article Nutrition and the Small Animal Cancer Patient has more information on the nutritional needs of cats and dogs with cancer.

Alternative pet cancer treatment

Alternative treatment for cancer in pets may be used to help support the animal’s health while your pet is undergoing conventional treatment, or as a treatment in itself.

• Homeopathic treatments can help stimulate the immune system, prevent and fight cancer, control pain, and prevent side effects from chemotherapy and radiation.
• Nutritional and herbal supplements help your pet’s body fight cancer.

Pet cancer treatment and recovery

Cancer is the leading cause of death in older cats and dogs. However, cancer is sometimes curable, and it is usually treatable. When cancer treatment can’t cure the disease, it can slow its progression and reduce tumor size and related discomfort.

Dogs, cats, and most other pets have much shorter life spans than people do. Treatment that extends the animal’s life by even a year gives a significant increase for an animal with a life expectancy of perhaps 10 to 15 years.

When we provide quality of life along with an increased length of life, we’ve done a lot for our pets.

You’re planning your vacation, or you need to travel for other reasons. Should you take your dog with you? If you take him, how do you prepare for travel with your dog? The answers depend on your dog, the traveling type and distance, and the destination.

Your dog and travel

The SPCA recommends against traveling with pets if possible. Dogs, however, are generally more adaptable to travel than other animals are, and most dogs want to be with their people as much as possible. If you want to travel with your dog, ask yourself these questions:

Your dog

• Is your dog in good health and able to easily adjust to temperature changes during the trip and at your destination?
• Is your dog accustomed to travel and being in unfamiliar places?
• Is your dog well socialized?

The traveling type and distance

• If you’ll be traveling on an airplane or other public transportation, is your dog comfortable confined to a travel crate or travel carrier for lengthy periods of time? Can you get a direct flight to your destination?
• If you’ll be traveling by motor vehicle, does your dog look forward to traveling in a vehicle? Will you have time to stop often? Will you be able to take your dog with you when you leave the vehicle, especially on hot days?

The destination

• Does your destination have pet-friendly accommodation?
• Will your dog be able to accompany you during activities at your destination?

If the answer is no to any of the above questions, your dog may be happier at home with a pet sitter or in a kennel, where the conditions will be suitable for dogs.

If the answer to all of the above questions is yes, consider bringing your dog with you — but be aware of what can go wrong when traveling with a dog.

Dogs and transportation

Dog identification

Whatever your mode of transportation, be sure that your dog is wearing a collar with an ID tag at all times. If you have a cell phone or destination phone number, include it on the ID tag. Your dog will be identifiable even if he loses his collar if he also has a microchip implant or ear tattoo.

A current photo of your dog is useful to have with you in case your dog goes missing.

Traveling by air with dogs

Air travel for dogs carries risks. Airlines consider dogs baggage, and every year, some animals become injured or even die from the conditions and handling they experience as airplane cargo items.

Some airlines allow dogs, particularly small dogs, to travel in the cabin with their owners. If you’ll be traveling by airplane with a dog, find out if the airline allows dogs to travel in the cabin. Also ask if the airline requires a specific type of dog carrier or if they have any other restrictions for dogs on airplanes.

For a long list of tips for traveling with dogs and other pets, see Tips for Safe Pet Air Travel.

Traveling by vehicle with dogs

When traveling in a car or other motor vehicle with a dog, stop regularly to give your dog bathroom and exercise breaks. Offer him water whenever you stop.

Bring with you:

• Travel dog bowls for food and water
• Dog food and, depending on where you’re going, water
• Medication, if your dog is on medication
• Plastic bags for cleaning up after your dog
• A towel to clean or dry your dog if necessary, or to cool him down if he’s hot
• A leash

Never leave your dog alone in a car in hot weather. Heat stroke can develop within a few minutes. The Odor Destroyer article Protecting Your Pet from Summer Heat covers how to protect your pet from heat exhaustion and heat stroke.

International travel with dogs

If you’re traveling to another country with your dog, your dog will probably be required to have up-to-date vaccinations. Depending on the destination, a quarantine period may be required. Check the requirements of the country you’re planning to visit about vaccinations and any other restrictions concerning dogs.

Dog-friendly accommodation

Hotels that allow dogs are becoming easier to find. To find hotels at your destination that accept dogs as guests, do an online search for “dog-friendly accommodation.” This search will produce listings of directories of hotels and other types of accommodation that allow dogs.

You are responsible for your dog and any damage he may cause. Bring him with you whenever possible when you leave the hotel. If you must leave him unattended in the hotel room, put a “Do not disturb” sign on the door handle so that hotel staff don’t unexpectedly encounter your dog.

At your destination, give your dog plenty of exercise. A tired dog is less likely to exhibit behavior problems.

With exercise, companionship, and all of his needs met, chances are that your dog will enjoy the trip as much as you will.

You want to keep your dog or cat safe in your yard. Perhaps you want to keep the neighbors’ cats and dogs out of your yard. Build a good fence, reinforce it, and design a yard that’s safe and fun for your dog or cat.

How to make fences dog-proof and cat-proof

Dogs find ways to go under, over, or through fences. Some dogs manage to open the gate if the latch isn’t secure. Cats are naturally good climbers, and they can often squeeze through small gaps in fences.

These steps will help keep cats and dogs from getting out of — or in — your yard:

• Check your fence and gate and make any necessary repairs. Fill any gaps that are more than a couple of inches wide.
• If you suspect that your dog can open the gate latch, replace the latch with a sturdier one. To go a step further, add an additional locking system, such as a slide bolt latch or a chain around the gate and the gatepost.
• To stop your dog from digging his way under the fence, put cement blocks under the fence or extend chicken wire from the bottom of the fence to a few feet underground. Give your dog a section of the yard with loose soil and sand to dig in to satisfy his digging urges.
• Put a “Keep gate closed” sign on both sides of the gate to remind people to keep the gate closed.
• If a table or other object is next to or near the fence, some animals will be able to jump over the fence. Don’t leave anything near the fence that animalscould use as a jumping pad. In the winter, clear any snowdrifts that build up near the fence.
• Two types of fence extensions keep dogs and cats from going over the fence (to get out of the yard or into it):
  • An inward extension of the fence made from chicken wire (this may be more effective at keeping cats and dogs in the yard than out of it)
  • An electric wire along the top of the fence

Cats and dogs will be less inclined to try to escape if they’re content. Take your dog for a daily walk, and spend time playing with your dog or cat every day. Leave small cracks or holes in the fence so that cats and dogs can see what’s happening outside the yard. Provide toys for your dog or cat to play with.

Outdoor enclosures for cats and dogs

Sometimes making the whole yard pet-proof isn’t feasible, or you may be concerned about someone taking or harming your pet. Outdoor dog and cat enclosures allow you to build a kennel-like area in the yard where dogs and cats can be outdoors safely.

An online search for “outdoor cat enclosures” or “outdoor dog enclosures” produces links to sites where enclosures for cats and dogs are sold. If the enclosures are built next to the house, a cat door or dog door can allow the animals to go outdoors and indoors whenever they want.

How to make your yard safer for dogs and cats

Tips on making your yard safer for your cat or dog:

• Use only non-toxic pesticides in the garden, and for your lawn, only non-toxic fertilizer.
• Avoid toxic plants in your garden. A list of toxic plants is at the ASPCA Animal Control Center site.
• Mouse or rat poison can kill cats and dogs. If you use it anywhere in your yard or house, make it impossible for dogs or cats to get at it. Check your yard daily for any mice or rats that the poison may have killed. You don’t want your pet having contact with the body of a poisoned animal.
• Clean up dog poop every day. Animals can get parasites and bacterial infections from feces.
• Look at the ground from the point of view of a dog or a cat. Remove any sharp objects that could injure your pet’s feet.

Related reading at this site

• Gardens for People and Gardens for Cats
  How to make your garden unattractive to cats, and how to create a garden just for them.
• Pet Containment: What’s in it for Cats and Dogs?
  An overview of pet confinement systems (wireless or invisible fences) and systems that keep pets from entering off-limits areas.
• How to Pet-Proof Your Home
  Tips on preparing your home for a new puppy, kitten, dog, or cat.